I travelled last week to Kyoto and Naoshima Island.
The highlight in Kyoto was, of course, to catch up with my dear friend Tomoko Kunimatsu. We keep in contact for 11 years since my first trip to Japan. Thanks to the internet but each personal encounter is particularly special. Like always she took me to amazing places. It seems I’ve seen so much in Kyoto over the years but it’s always a surprise.
Tomo took me to Oubai-In, sub-Temple of Daitoku-Ji Temple. It’s very rare opened to the public. Daitoku-Ji Temple is the headquarters of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. The Temple is the estate with many sub Temples; it’s considered one of five major temples in Kyoto. The history of the Temple started in 1562. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed inside the grounds just at the entrance.
This temple has a strong connection with Sen- no- Rikyu, one of the greatest tea masters. He created one of three gardens of the temple- Chinese style dry landscape garden: it covered with moss, 3 stones at the back and the gourd-shaped pond in the front. It was a place where Lord Hideyoshi ordered Sen-no-Rikyo to commit ritual suicide.
My friend Tomoko Kunimatsu researched the topic during her over 20 years study the Way of Chado, Urasenke school. She believes that the main reason for Lord Hideyoshi’s decree was Sen no Rikyu’s decision to erect his own huge statue at the temple’s entrance. It would make Lord Hideyoshi enter the temple underneath of the statute. He considered it as the challenge to his status and superiority.
The other interesting sub-Temple Kotoin was closed until 2019 for renovations. Tomoko told me that she is very fond of its informal garden. Now I have a good reason to come back.
We walked 10 minutes further to see Imamiya Jinja Shinto Shrine. Strikingly red with a garden and red bridge it sits high up. It was built in holly place Funaoka Hil in 992 for protection from plague and relocated to current place in 1902. The first spring festival in Kyoto, Yasurai Matsuri, starts at this shrine.
It has a mysterious stone Ahokashisan. You stroke the stone and if you lift it up easily from the resting pillow you are in a good health. I lifted it up easily: now nothing to worry about.
We walked back from Temple’s grounds to the street to have our afternoon tea as Tomoka told me, from over 500 years old sweet shop. Actually, there were 2 shops opposite each other. All they served were tea and aburi-mochi as they did it 500 years ago.
An aburi mochi is glutinous rice sweet, about the size of a walnut that has been placed on a bamboo skewer, rolled in sesame powder, roasted, and then dipped in sweetened white miso sauce. It is served with barley tea. The feast cost- 500 Yen.
It was a lot to see, food to savour and sake to taste in Kyoto. We also spent a day at the Antique Show, rainy afternoon at The Museum of Kyoto, wondered the streets of Gion (under the rain). It’s never enough of Kyoto for me.
Just before leaving Kyoto I dropped to Isetan’s 7th-floor gallery at Kyoto station. They always have interesting exhibitions. This time it was “Beautiful Women” by Czech Art Novae artist Alfred Mucha. The works represented the lifelong artist’s work with a wonderful insight into his life. I saw his Museum in Prague years ago.
Back to shinkansen with the bento box in hands, I was ready for my new adventure – Naoshima Island.
Talk soon.
Jaa mata
